Month: April 2008

Patagonia…

lanin1898.jpg 

We drove from Bariloche to San Martin of the Andes and spent 3 days in that area, once again driving on the dirt and gravel roads which were the main roads between places in this part of our journey. The mountains are not the jagged peaks you expect to see in

Patagonia, turns out they are mostly south of here about 500 miles and further in Parque Nacional Glaciers and Torre de Paines. That will be next year’s trip! We spent our first day driving down the lake here and found it very relaxing. We just happened upon a camping and beach area on the lake and spent a few hours wandering around the rocks and gravel beaches. While I made some photographs Dana was able to use his cell phone to do some business and talk to his wife. The coverage here is incredible!

 

Waterfall closeup      Waterfall Close Up

 

We then hiked back to a waterfall and then on beyond to what we think is the border between Chile and Argentina. We walked a little further just to be able to say we climbed the Andes from Argentina to

Chile and back! The forest is more of a temperate rain forest, the floor covered with a cane which looks like bamboo.

Trail                Dana & me on the Border

The next day we drove up a different dirt road with the intent of crossing into Chile. But at the start of the Parque Nacional Lanin we were stopped at the guard house and after a few moments of them looking at all our documents were told we could not take the car across the border – not the right paper work. But they did let us into the park and we spent a great day ending up at a lava field which stretched for miles from the volcano down the mountainside and into a lake. Small trees, probably hundreds of years old sprouted up from the rocks in places. But the mountain itself was devoid of any vegetation we could see. 

Tree & Volcano

 

The drive back to Bariloche was also nice, although we were being chased by rain all day. We stopped at another waterfall which happened to be right by the road. Then drove on. We stopped for lunch at Lago Traful, as the dark clouds approached we shot some of the storm clouds and light reflecting on the water. We also shot our last shots on the river Trafol.

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Our final full day in Argentina dawned clear, with the rain clouds which dumped rain on us al night clearing off and revealing snow in the mountains! We went up a chair lift to the top of the hillside, which locals like to tell you National Geographic says is one of the 7 best views in the world. Maybe. Dana walked up the hillside while I rode the chairlift with the camera bag. The clouds we beautiful on the snowy peaks. But the wind and cold we something I battled in keeping the camera steady! We drove a small circle around and back to the hotel and have spent a very relaxing last day.

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Tomorrow we fly home returning sometime on Tuesday afternoon. Argentina has left me wanting to come back often! I guess that is the measure of a great trip. Never felling you have photographed it well enough and wanting to experience it even more.компютри втора употреба

Adios for now…

Richard (and Dana)

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PS: I was not able to upload the normal web pages of more images from here this time. Look for an update later this week! Plus it is almost sunset so I need to get back out there!


Patagonia – the first two days…

Patagonian Peak

Well we made it! Sunday morning the weather was perfect and the smoke had cleared in Buenos Aires, although we hear it has come back again, and we made it into Patagonia without any problems. The first views of the Patagonian Mountains come as we approach our hotel. We are on a peninsula in the Lago Nahuel Huapi and have some very fine views from the hotel, Alderbaran – a small 8 room hacienda of stone and wood and cement. A beautiful place.

Lifting Clouds

Our first day here we awoke to a heavy overcast and threat of rain and storms. The kind of day which can turn into some magnificent light and clouds to work with, or be very boring. We drove into Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi about 60 kilometers on a dirt road to a mountain called Tronador, which is one of the largest ones around at 3,478 meters and contains about 6 active glaciers.

Tronador 

The road ends near the bottom of the Black Glacier, so named for the dirt and rocks it has pushed down the mountain. But a small part of the road continues on up to a point to start hiking and we go there first. A short hike up the mountain and you can walk along one of the many streams pouring out of the mountain. While I stopped to make images, Dana walked on. We plan on meeting at the car at a specified time. The landscape reminds me a bit of Alaska with its short trees and clear rocky streams. But I have not seen this many waterfalls on the side of one mountain before. I count about 7-9 which I can see – all very big!

Black Glacier

Back at the bottom of the Black Glacier I find some very interesting shots of the edge of the glacier and the ice in the lake below. It is fascinating to me how this all pushes down the mountain and yet has been doing so for thousands of years. And hopefully will continue to do so. The shapes of the ice and dirt are wonderful to work with. Trying to capture the essence of the place.And every so often you hear a section break off – we never saw any start – but we saw the clouds of snow billow up high up the mountain side. Once – just before I was ready to click the shutter a small piece fell into the water with a small splash right in front of me.

Not wanting to take the dirt road back in the dark we headed out as the light began to fade. I knew of a spot we had stopped at on the way in where we did our first shots of Tronador. I was hoping to be able to shoot there as the sun light up the clouds at sunset – if it would break just right! We pulled up at the side of the road just as the sun began to light up the clouds. Perfect! What a show as the light changed over about 15 minute’s time! And now for the drive back, in the darkness.

Tronador Sunset

On our second day we drove back into Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi and headed for a place called three lakes. It is a series of three lakes all several hundred of feet below each other which you can see from the top of the ridge as you drive down in. As always, it is a dirt and gravel and rock filled road, making travel at 40 kilometers the fastest you can travel, and more likely at about 10-15 kilometers. As we descend through the forest the trees are incredible. Big trunks, lots of a cane which resembles bamboo covers the forest floor. It is fall here and many trees, especially the Poplars are in full bloom. After making a few river crossing in our trusty Chevy Cobalt we get to the first lake. It is a clear mountain lake where you can see the bottom as if there was no water! Dana begins his hike around the edge of the lake as I begin to photograph. I play with the reflections on the water and the mountains up high above us. Then some geese float by and I take several dozen shots of them! After spending what turns out to be several hours there taking it all in we decide to head south once again.

Lake & Poplars           Poplar Reflections

We end up at Parque Nacional Lago Puelo in the late afternoon. This park is small in size compared with the others and seems to be more like a state or city park back in the states. Parks here are not like in the states, here they encompass cities and towns as well as the natural areas. And there are no real ranger areas it seems. But this park is clearly bigger than what we see in front of us, when you look at the maps. It also shares the border with Chile and we discover we are only about 1 kilometer or less from the border now. Tonight’s drive home is on paved roads. But that does not stop us from stopping for some evening shots!

 

To see more image use this link to go to a web page: www.mackphoto.com/blog/Argentina/Patagonia1/index.html


Argentina – Buenos Aries

Buenos Aires

 

I am currently on a shoot in Patagonia inArgentina with a friend of mine Dana. Here is a bit of the trip log. We arrived in Buenos Aries on Friday morning and were at our hotel by about 10am. After checking in we walked through town about 4-5 miles to the

Recoleta Cemetery, one of the oldest in Buenos Aires. The walk took us through many neighborhoods and we finally found the entrance after Dana actually received direction in Spanish from some folks on the street. The cemetery is a mile square of “streets” of mausoleums where entire families are buried. This cemetery has 16 past Presidents of Argentina, many other politicians and military as well as Eva Peron’s grave with her family.

Recoletta

My first impressions of Buenos Aires are it is much like New York. A bit on the dirty side, very bustling city full of folks. There are new modern parts and old historic parts and many places which look both at the same time. It is also VERY SMOKY! Apparently the farmers every year burn off their fields. This year it seems that with the high prices of wheat and corn and food in general the Argentine government has decided to tax any exports at 44%. The farmers have revolted by burning their fields all at once causing HEAVY smoke to form over the city. So bad your eyes sting when outside, you can see between 2 blocks and a mile depending on the day and time. Otherwise it is 80 degrees and, sunny?

 

We walked around the old docks area now a restaurant and retail area near downtown; these were the old docks from the 1800’s. There is still a “new” dock area where shipping takes place. The image of the cable bridge across the shipping lane is for pedestrians only. It swings out of the way for those ships still needing passage.

On Saturday we took the subway down to the Plaza de Mayo, where the government offices and a famous Cathedral are found. It was there we saw them filming a movie, which turned out to be for a Pokeman film or game we couldn’t tell, but it was for Nintendo/Pokeman from the scene board. We also walked through the area known as the Bocca. An Italian and immigrant area in the old docks which is now an artist colony of sorts and more important they say it is the birthplace of the Tango.

Tango

One thing more about Buenos Aries, they eat very late – 9pm is still early, more like 10pm when folks really come out. We had a great meal on Friday night at Casa-Blanca (www.casa-blanafonda.com.ar). The waitress was great and was taking 1st year English so both Dana and I were able to talk with her. She was very delightful and the food was excellent! A highly recommended place to eat! Saturday night we ate at a place up the street, more popular, but the food was worse and the service terrible. Wouldn’t talk at all to you. Mean guys! Oh well.

 

Now tomorrow we are supposed to fly to Bariloche in the Patagonia region near the

Andes. The problem is the airport closed this afternoon because of the smoke. We don’t yet now if we can get there. One option might be driving. It is about 600 miles, but not on roads like we have. We have heard the bus takes about 20 hours. We shall see what tomorrow brings!

 

To see more images you can go to this link: www.mackphoto.com/blog/Argentina/BuenosAries/index.html

 

That’s all for now! Until next time…hopefully in the Andes of Patagonia!

 

Adios!

Richard


A Sad Day for Publishing

The Lewis & Clark Trail American Landscapes

 

I returned from my shoot last week in Great Smoky Mountain National Park to learn the very sad news that the finest book printer in the US, The Stinehour Press, had ceased operations. They have been lauded by, among others, the Washington Post, as the finest fine book printer – and by the many printing industry awards they have won over their 50 year run. Their client list included the Art Institute of Chicago, the San Francisco Fine Art Museums, the Museum of Modern Art, the Museum of Boston, the Norman Rockwell Museum, The Getty Museum, the Guggenheim, the Whitney and the Smithsonian. Publishers included Random House, Little-Brown and many university presses, including Harvard, Stanford, Yale, Princeton and Dartmouth. They have also printed the works for many photographers, and of course Quiet Light Publishing as this is where my book The Lewis & Clark Trail American Landscapes was printed.

 

We chose them for several reasons. One they were the best. They had shown us proofs on our paper selection using our images to prove they could deliver – even before we accepted their quote. Once we were there we could see first hand why they were/are the crafts men and women of such high caliber. Every one of them was dedicated to our project, from the front office, to production to the pressroom. And everyone had the right to say, wait, we need to do this before moving on – even as we were on press. Their quality and dedication to my book was never ending. And we quickly became part of the family there in their corner of Northeast Vermont. We dined at some of their homes, went to places around town with them and became friends. And I was only one of many hundreds or thousands of books they have printed over their 50 year run. It saddens me that their dedication to publishing has come to an end and that these folks will now be looking elsewhere for work.

One of the reasons they cited for their closing is the high competition with overseas printers. The cost of printing overseas has made it so many publisher’s choose this route. We considered it. And rejected it for two reasons. On price, when considering the cost of travel overseas for the print run, and the cost of shipping finished product back, they were within nickels on the price per book. And equally important – they were here – in the US. I have always thought we should support US companies such as The Stinehour Press when we can. A company which put quality first and treats their employees and customer’s with respect. Besides, it only seemed reasonable to have a book about America and its history and landscape be printed here.

But in the end, it seems, the cost of printing overseas did overcome them. They mentioned in their press release they could not compete any longer with overseas pricing when they can print books for what their cost for just the paper would be. This can not just be a labor cost problem. I can only imagine what the cost of health insurance for 26 employees and their families must have been. Imagine if that cost was taken out by having universal health care. Maybe then they would be able to stay and continue their craft of making some of the finest books published. And while some may knock me for being nostalgic here, why is it that we always rush for the lowest price on everything? Doesn’t quality stand for something? I realize the digital age has provided a cheaper, faster way to be able to send off PDF’s of a project to printer’s, have them make a few pages of proofs to be ok’d and then print on demand. But do these books give you the same feel in your hands as one which is handcrafted? Maybe the fact that they worked from 6am to 4pm instead of around the clock put them in a different league, personally, one which I admire. (Oh, and yes, if they were in the middle of a run they did finish it – they didn’t just stop the presses until tomorrow). And that meant family was as important in their company philosophy – at least from what we observed in our time in the Northeast Kingdom. And it showed in their product. Our book The Lewis and Clark Trail American Landscapes, has not only won over a dozen awards, I see it in the faces and hear it in the words the first time someone picks up the book for the first time. Right away they are impressed with the quality. There always seem to be sigh’s of wow, or “hey look at this”, as they show it to someone else. Quality does stand out. It should be what we all strive for.

As Warren Bingham, CEO of The Stinehour Press said in their press release, “These are not good times for American manufacturers. I hope we know the full cost of what we’re buying as a society. When lowest cost is always the determining factor, it might be higher than we think.”

Something to think about. After all, if we can help out Wall Street and their CEO’s when they make unwise structures of mortgages and derivatives, or give huge tax breaks to oil companies making 45 billion in profits – more than most countries gross national products, why can’t we invest in companies worthy of our investment? Companies that care about quality and their employees and customers? Those small companies which really are what America is all about – ingenuity and quality. It is something I don’t understand. It is something 26 people and their families in the northeast now probably wonder about as well.

Yes it is a very sad day for publishing, especially of fine art book publisher’s, but it is also a very sad day for America.

Post Script – When we were at the Stinehour Press we did our first “blog” as a series of posts each day on our website. I will reissue this post today so you can see exactly what it was like to be there. You can find it at www.mackphoto.com/Vermont.html